An Ode to Claire McCardell in the object-based analysis of a Red Cotton Dress

By Jenn Bilczuk In the 1940’s, Paris was under occupation and designers elsewhere were cut off from their Parisian inspirations. To prevent the demise of the industry, American designers were thrust into a position of fashion authority that had been previously denied to them (Buckland). Key influencers, like Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, fueled by economic nationalism…

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Drawing as a Research Tool: Observing The Sleeping Beauty Bluebird Costume

Front view of the Bluebird costume. (FRC 2014.08.015A) Drawing by Teresa Adamo 2017. Observing an historical artifact can be overwhelming at first, especially when presented with a garment that has a large amount of surface details and materials.  Creating observational drawings can be an excellent method for object-based research. As stated in The Dress Detective,…

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Analysis of a Frock Coat by Rei Kawakubo Part II

by Jordan Nguyen  In Part I of this analysis, I considered the construction of the frock coat. Part II will offer reflection and interpretation of this garment in terms of Rei Kawakubo’s continuing influence in design. Japanese design aesthetics, gender neutrality, and feminist interpretations. As Kawakubo was never trained as a designer, she was able…

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An analysis of a woman’s frock coat by Rei Kawakubo Part 1

By Jordan Nguyen The following object analysis will focus on a black women’s frock coat by Rei Kawakubo dating from the early 1990s (FRC2006.01.023). Upon first glance, the garment appears ordinary and minimalistic in its design. The lengthened overcoat bears no features which demand imperative attention, and it seems undistinguishable from current times. It is…

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