Analysis of a Frock Coat by Rei Kawakubo Part II

by Jordan Nguyen  In Part I of this analysis, I considered the construction of the frock coat. Part II will offer reflection and interpretation of this garment in terms of Rei Kawakubo’s continuing influence in design. Japanese design aesthetics, gender neutrality, and feminist interpretations. As Kawakubo was never trained as a designer, she was able…

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An analysis of a woman’s frock coat by Rei Kawakubo Part 1

By Jordan Nguyen The following object analysis will focus on a black women’s frock coat by Rei Kawakubo dating from the early 1990s (FRC2006.01.023). Upon first glance, the garment appears ordinary and minimalistic in its design. The lengthened overcoat bears no features which demand imperative attention, and it seems undistinguishable from current times. It is…

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Smythe Les Vestes: The Story is in the Name

By Jennifer Braun Designer Elsa Schiaparelli once wrote; “A dress has no life of its own unless it is worn.” According to this statement, a one-button women’s blazer which now resides in the Ryerson Fashion Research Collection (FRC) has had a dejected biography and a short-lived one at best. From the manufacturer straight to the…

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Inside a Dolce & Gabbana Fur Coat

by Millie Yates This Dolce & Gabbana fur coat from the Ryerson Fashion Research Collection (FRC2009.01.226 A+B) is a breath of fresh air amongst the functional but drab black coats often seen in the long Canadian winter. The thick, luxurious fur used in this garment has beautiful gradations in colour, shifting from light to dark on…

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A Dissection of a Wool Jacket by Christian Dior for Holt Renfew

By Millie Yates It is impossible not be intrigued by the deceptively simple design of this garment. Though it appears uncomplicated, the process of creating its perfect drape and elegant angles required mastery. Such is the beauty of couture.  This wool tweed cropped jacket with ¾ sleeves was designed by Christian Dior for Holt Renfrew and is…

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A Close Look at a Lady’s Velveteen Jacket from the 1880s

By Jessica Oakes I have chosen to study a lady’s late-nineteenth century purple velveteen jacket from the Ryerson Research Collection (FRC2014.07.198). This garment is described in the catalogue as follows: “Purple velveteen military-style womenswear bodice/jacket with standing collar, tails and overskirt sections, double-breasted with brass moulded buttons up front” and was dated to the 1880s.…

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