Julian Rose, the Forgotten Dressmaker

by Guest Author Anya Georgijevic In the 1950s, during the post World War II opulence, the expansive silhouette of crinoline skirts came back  into fashion, especially for evening gowns. As is well documented, leading couturiers like Christian Dior and Hubert de Givenchy embraced this bell-shaped silhouette for both day and evening wear. Ready-to-wear designers followed this…

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An Ode to Claire McCardell in the object-based analysis of a Red Cotton Dress

By Jenn Bilczuk In the 1940’s, Paris was under occupation and designers elsewhere were cut off from their Parisian inspirations. To prevent the demise of the industry, American designers were thrust into a position of fashion authority that had been previously denied to them (Buckland). Key influencers, like Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, fueled by economic nationalism…

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Mulhallen’s Muglers: The biography of a pair of hand-painted pumps

By Annika Waddell  Amid the assemblage of shoes found within the Ryerson Research Collection is one unassuming white shoebox (FRC1994.01.030 A+B), pulled delicately from a shelf by the collection’s coordinator, and author of The Dress Detective, Ingrid Mida. The name “Thierry Mugler” is written in black sharpie along the box’s edge. Taking the box in…

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Inside a Dolce & Gabbana Fur Coat

by Millie Yates This Dolce & Gabbana fur coat from the Ryerson Fashion Research Collection (FRC2009.01.226 A+B) is a breath of fresh air amongst the functional but drab black coats often seen in the long Canadian winter. The thick, luxurious fur used in this garment has beautiful gradations in colour, shifting from light to dark on…

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