Analysis of a Frock Coat by Rei Kawakubo Part II

by Jordan Nguyen  In Part I of this analysis, I considered the construction of the frock coat. Part II will offer reflection and interpretation of this garment in terms of Rei Kawakubo’s continuing influence in design. Japanese design aesthetics, gender neutrality, and feminist interpretations. As Kawakubo was never trained as a designer, she was able…

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Smythe Les Vestes: The Story is in the Name

By Jennifer Braun Designer Elsa Schiaparelli once wrote; “A dress has no life of its own unless it is worn.” According to this statement, a one-button women’s blazer which now resides in the Ryerson Fashion Research Collection (FRC) has had a dejected biography and a short-lived one at best. From the manufacturer straight to the…

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Mulhallen’s Muglers: The biography of a pair of hand-painted pumps

By Annika Waddell  Amid the assemblage of shoes found within the Ryerson Research Collection is one unassuming white shoebox (FRC1994.01.030 A+B), pulled delicately from a shelf by the collection’s coordinator, and author of The Dress Detective, Ingrid Mida. The name “Thierry Mugler” is written in black sharpie along the box’s edge. Taking the box in…

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Inside a Dolce & Gabbana Fur Coat

by Millie Yates This Dolce & Gabbana fur coat from the Ryerson Fashion Research Collection (FRC2009.01.226 A+B) is a breath of fresh air amongst the functional but drab black coats often seen in the long Canadian winter. The thick, luxurious fur used in this garment has beautiful gradations in colour, shifting from light to dark on…

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